Coen Regional Aboriginal Corporation

The Coen Region
Created 14-10-04
Updated
04-08-07
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History


Great Northern Mine
circa 1905

Click images to enlarge

Coen was founded as a log fort beside the Coen River by Robert Sefton in 1876. The River's name, which it adopted, was chosen more than 200 years earlier by a Dutch explorer on the West Coast, after the Governer of Batavia (Dutch East Indies) who was Jan Pieterszoon Coen.
Sefton and William Lakeland had discovered the Batavia/Wenlock River goldfield in 1873. At the same time there had been a gold rush to Palmer River further South, and a track was cut from there to Coen in 1878-80.
At first the gold was alluvial, and of poor quality, but reef gold was found and the Coen field was "proclaimed" in 1892. Additional finds nearby at Ebagoolah, 30 km South of Coen, extended the boom, but it was over by 1910.

The Overland Telegraph
was built betwen 1883 and 1887, a few years later than the Adelaide to Darwin line which was opened in 1872. European expansion and settlement were thereby accelerated.

Coen grew in the 1890's with the establishment of the Great Northern Mine, also as a supply point for surrounding mines and cattle stations.
A Post Office was set up in 1893, and a school started in 1895. Chinese merchants and market gardeners who had followed the gold-seekers set up in and near the town. They also cut and exported sandalwood, assisted by Aboriginal people.

The Indigenous peoples of the region comprised several language groups living in separate areas. These boundaries are still recognised by the present generation. The original inhabitants resented the intrusion into their lands. Inevitably, there was conflict with the new arrivals. This began with the early explorers, but was accentuated by the influx of prospectors and miners, and later by cattlemen and telegraph construction workers. The Aboriginal warriors were no match for well-armed settlers and police (often native police from other regions). In response to attacks on the new arrivals, or to "theft" of their livestock, many indigenous people were also killed in punitive attacks on Aboriginal camps.

Dispossession
Displaced from their traditional lands, food was scarce, and many who came into closer contact with the white men died of
introduced diseases. Most of the remaining native people were gathered into Missions or Reserves; the Reserve in Coen was not gazetted until 1940. Forced removals continued even into the 1960s.
But in Central Cape York most adapted by moving onto the newly established cattle stations where they became valued stockmen and domestic labour. Some worked in the mines, and a few were employed in Coen. They provided cheap labour, but even mandatory low wages and child endowments were often witheld or diverted.
Moves towards better or equal pay forced most out of work and into Reserves and later onto Welfare. Missions and Reserves were slowly run down by limiting funding. Indigenous people only moved out of Reserves in the last 30 years and now make up over 80% of the town population. Others live in Outstations on their traditional lands (also called Homelands)
which were acquired for return to the Traditional Owners.   
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Transport and Communications

Initially, supplies for the goldfields came by sea through Port Stewart. Coen was a major supply centre for the area and also a staging point on the overland routes, the nearest inland settlement at that time being Lakeland, 300km to the South.
Land transport by horse or bullock wagon was the rule until motor vehicles arrived in the late 1920s followed some years later by airplanes. World War II saw Coen elevated to an advance Army and Air Force base which resulted in the construction of the present airfield.
click these 3 images to enlarge

     
 

Today supplies come mainly on road trains, and 4WDs are recommended for personal travel

4WD vehicle
From Overland Telegraph to Satellite commnications
Old Telegraph Pole

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Radio Mast
Underground Cable

Satellite Dish & Solar Panel



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Natural Features

Coen is situated among low wooded hills on the Western side of the Northern extension of the Great Dividing Range (view). The Coen River flows into the Gulf of Carpentaria. Coen is however closer to the East coast than the West. The valleys and plains nearby are covered with savannah grassland and open woodland, especially to the West. In the higher ranges and river valleys are areas of rainforest, and in the estuaries near the coast extensive belts of mangroves.

Seasons
For practical purposes, there are two seasons: the Wet or monsoon from December to April or May (preceded by heat and thunderstorms in October-November), and the Dry for the rest of the year. The Indigenous people describe six seasons, recognised according to the times when certain flowers or birds appear, or when particular foods are available. Rivers are seasonal, most having little or no flow by the end of the Dry. But the Wet brings flooding, and road access is effectively cut off most of the time. However locals say it is the best time of the year. The landscape is green and fresh, many migratory birds arrive, and it is not unpleasantly hot.
Temperatures in the Dry (cool season) range from 25-28degC max. to 10
degC min., Oct-Nov 30-40degC max., mid-Wet season 26-30degC max.

Fires
As the land dries out after May, it becomes progressively more parched, roads become dusty, the long grass dies and invites bushfires. So by the middle of the Dry vegetation is cleared with controlled burning ("cool burn") at times when weather conditions are most suited. In previous times this allowed fresh growth which attracted game, and also made it easier to hunt. And it helped avoid rampant or "hot" fires.
The indigenous people burnt land in stages and over small areas (like a mosaic). On cattle stations this pattern was changed. The type of fire affects grass and tree growth in areas where termite mounds abound. This is a factor in endangering the Golden-Shouldered Parrot, which nests in termite mounds. The fire management technique now recommended to save the parrots is similar to that used by the Aboriginal people. (See also under Birds)

Indigenous Knowledge
The importance of Indigenous knowledge in caring for country is now recognised. Centres being set up assisted by grants from the Natural Heritage Trust ("Land and Sea Centres") will conduct research and collect local knowledge for sustainable land use and protection of endangered animal and plant species. Many edible and medicinal plants can be studied and some may be utilised. It is important to collect and record this knowledge before it is lost. Some other projects already exist; one such project is in focussed on Lakefield National Park, to the South-East.

Birds
Coen itself is a good area for bird-watching, and so is the Port Stewart area on the East coast. The birdsong chorus is one of the pleasures of waking in the morning. Birds which can be seen in Coen in the Dry include Blue-Faced and other Honeyeaters, Bronzewing and other Pigeons, Figbirds, Great Bowerbirds, Butcherbirds, and Pheasant Coucals, as well as Galahs and Currawongs. Also there is a project for the protection of the Golden-Shouldered Parrot at Artemis Station, South of Musgrave River on the way from Cairns.
Further afield the Iron Range and the McIlwrath Range are sites where many birds, some rare or migratory, may be seen. Iron Range National Park has birds found nowhere else in Australia: Palm Cockatoo, Eclectus Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot, Golden-shouldered Parrot, Magnificent Riflebird, Fawn-breasted Bowerbird, and Trumpet Manucode, to name a few.

Fish
Crocodiles must be expected in the lower reaches of rivers and even in lagoons remaining after floods. But fishing is very good in these places, in estuaries and in the sea (Fishing in Cape York). The rights of indigenous people to hunting and fishing on their own lands should be respected, as many of these areas are within their boundaries. Fish, shellfish and occasionally turtles and turtle eggs are an important part of their diet when they are "on country".

Pigs
One introduced species is the feral pig, now responsible for extensive damage and sullying of water sources. But it is also a food source. The pigs have extended their range far and wide within the last 100 years. Some are thought to have originated from animals which escaped when Captain Cook's ship Endeavour beached at Cooktown, but some people say they came from Indonesia or Papua-New Guinea. It is much more likely that they escaped from early European settlements all over the country.

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Coen from Wunthulpu
Coen River in the Dry
Coen River in the Wet
A Cool Fire
golden-shouldered parrot on termite mound
Fig bird
Honeyeater
Turtle eggs dug up from sand
Handline fishing at Stewart River mouth

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